Monday, September 14, 2026

Winter Beers with Master Cicerone Craig Thomas

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Introduction to Winter Beers

It’s winter, time to curl up by a crackling fire with a blanket and a hot cup of cocoa. Or if you happen to be a beer lover, perhaps a glass of pitch-black, high-octane beer – peanut-butter stout, maybe, or oak-smoked doppelbock – that will warm you from the inside out.

History of Winter Beers

The coldest months are peak season for winter beers, a slightly amorphous category defined by production date, alcohol content and spice flavors that can resemble a mincemeat pie. Enjoyed hundreds of years ago in societies such as English and Norse, these tipples fell into a lag only to see a resurgence in the 1970s as “winter warmers” or “Christmas beers.” They became a hit in the U.S. after San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing released its Christmas ale in 1975, and today include the likes of Sierra Nevada’s Celebration IPA, Allagash Brewing’s Ski House and Deschutes Brewery’s Jubelale.

Expert Insights: Craig Thomas, Master Cicerone

With a short window to shop for these liquid treats — whose flavor profiles can be intimidating, ranging from dark chocolate to gingerbread to peppermint candy – how should you decide what to sample? Here to help is Craig Thomas, who knows a little something about beer, given his role as a Master Cicerone. Thomas is a former sensory-research analyst at Firestone Walker Brewing Co. who now works at Abstrax Hops, a company that develops flavor and aroma extracts for the beverage industry.

What is a Master Cicerone?

What, exactly, is a Master Cicerone? Think of it as an exceptional beer sommelier who’s verified through written, oral and sensory testing. “It recognizes an exceptional understanding of brewing, beer and pairing — combining outstanding tasting abilities with an encyclopedic knowledge of commercial beers,” according to trade publication Craft Brewing Business.

Interview with Craig Thomas

Recently, Thomas took the time to talk about the Cicerone program and about the joy of winter beers, and to recommend a couple of his favorites.

Q: Is becoming a Master Cicerone as difficult as everyone says?

A: It’s the hardest test I’ve ever done, including any final I had during my (history) master’s degree. I don’t know if anyone’s passed the first time – maybe one or two? I passed the second time I took it.

Q: What’s it involve?

A: All of the beer canon is basically encompassed in the program. So you have to be very well-studied, not only in the production side and ingredients side, but also in serving and dispensing and the presentation of beer and food pairings. You have to pack a lot of information into your head, and you have to be able to talk about it in both the technical fashion but also very eloquently, in a consumer-facing way that appeals to your average beer connoisseur.

Winter Beers: Characteristics and Pairings

Q: What do you know about winter beer?

A: I would say it’s a very loose style, or not even a style. It’s just something that a lot of breweries do in their own fashion, and everybody’s taken their own interpretation of it. In the olden days, a lot of winter beers were conceptualized as stronger with more alcohol. They put you in that space, where you’re eating cake or gingerbread next to a fire and a Christmas tree. The higher alcohol and the spices in the beer – if you get some nice caramel or gingerbread characteristics — it all just fits into that atmosphere.

Q: What kind of spices are typically added?

A: Cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, orange peel, ginger — there’s no necessary rule to what you can put into a Christmas ale. The best I would say is peppermint. But there are a number of brewers who go in a different direction and say, “It’s not going to be spiced. We’re just going to make a unique IPA that we’re only serving around Christmas time.”

Recommendations

Q: Would you like to throw out some winter recommendations?

A: Sierra Nevada’s Celebration IPA is just an exceptional beer from start to finish — it’s worth trying regardless of anything. Every brewer I know always enjoys tasting this year’s Celebration. St. Bernardus is a brewery out of Belgium, and they do a Christmas ale every year. It’s very high ABV, usually around 10%, and typically has a nice spice character. And Belgian beers often use dark-candy sugar, which lends a not-quite-molasses, but toasted-rich-caramel note that works in harmony with these beer styles. I think you can find it at Trader Joe’s.

Conclusion

Winter beers offer a unique and delicious way to enjoy the holiday season. With their rich flavors and aromas, they are perfect for sipping by the fire or pairing with your favorite holiday dishes. Whether you are a seasoned beer connoisseur or just looking to try something new, winter beers are definitely worth exploring.

FAQs

Q: What is the best way to store winter beers?
A: Winter beers should be stored in a cool, dark place to preserve their flavor and aroma.
Q: Can winter beers be paired with food?
A: Yes, winter beers can be paired with a variety of foods, including holiday dishes such as ham, turkey, and prime rib.
Q: How long do winter beers typically last?
A: Winter beers can last for several months when stored properly, but it is best to consume them within a few weeks of purchase for optimal flavor and aroma.

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