Introduction to the James Beard Awards
DOWNTOWN — Chicago has two new James Beard Award winners: the upscale bar Kumiko and chef Noah Sandoval of the tasting-menu restaurant Oriole, both in the West Loop.
The Annual James Beard Awards Ceremony
The 35th annual James Beard Awards were presented Monday night at the Lyric Opera House in Downtown Chicago, 20 N. Wacker Drive. Dubbed the “Oscars of the food world,” the awards recognize exceptional talent in the culinary and food media industries and are presented every June in Chicago.
Chicago’s Representation at the Awards
Chicago had five finalists in three categories: Outstanding Bar, Outstanding Restaurant and Best Chef: Great Lakes.
Kumiko Wins Outstanding Bar
Julia Momose, dressed in a kimono-inspired gown, accepted the Outstanding Bar honors for her Japanese-influenced establishment Kumiko, 630 W. Lake St. — which she opened with Sandoval and his wife, Cara, in 2018.
Importance of Immigrants in the Hospitality Industry
Momose spoke of the importance of immigrants to the hospitality industry in her acceptance speech, expanding on that sentiment to Block Club offstage after her win. “Absolutely every restaurant or bar I’ve ever worked, the life of it has been immigrants,” Momose said. “And when I see people who are working so hard and love this country and are of this place, another reason that my place is successful, and they’re living in fear that they might be taken away, that breaks my heart. … and I want that to stop.”
Praise for the Chicago Food Scene
Momose also had high praise for the Chicago food scene and her industry peers. “Chicago bars and restaurants, we all go through the harshest winters here, but everyone comes together and bands together. There’s a beautiful community,” she said. “We all go to each other’s spots and support, and then when the summer comes around, everyone’s kind of like loose and free and so super busy. But when we see each other, there’s always this moment of understanding and connection.”
Michelin-starred Chicago chef Noah Sandoval Credit: Cara Sandoval / Provided
Best Chef: Great Lakes Award
Sandoval of Oriole, 661 W. Walnut St., won the Best Chef: Great Lakes category, besting fellow Chicago chefs Thai Dang of HaiSous in Pilsen and Chris Jung and Erling Wu-Bower of Maxwells Trading in the West Loop.
Acceptance and Support
Sandoval didn’t attend the ceremony, so a friend accepted his award in his absence, ending his brief speech by saying, “F— ICE,” a sentiment echoed by a few other presenters and winners.
Prominence of Immigrants and Diversity
Prominent chefs all over the globe attended Monday’s ceremony, many of whom urged diversity and inclusion at the podium. Some winners unfurled flags on stage from their regions of origin, including Puerto Rico and Peru. The prominence of immigrants in the restaurant industry, many of whom are under threat of deportation by the Trump administration’s restrictive policies, brought the issue to the forefront of the awards ceremony.
Local Politicians’ Support
Local politicians attended as well, with speeches by Gov. JB Pritzker and Mayor Brandon Johnson. “Chicago is one of the best cities in the world for fine and casual dining, and we love our food here,” Pritzker said. “Restaurants and the people who make them special breathe life into our communities. These establishments are what make us who we are.”
Conclusion
The James Beard Awards ceremony highlighted the excellence and diversity of the culinary world, with Chicago’s Kumiko and Chef Noah Sandoval of Oriole taking home top honors. The event also brought attention to the importance of immigrants in the hospitality industry and the need for diversity and inclusion.
FAQs
Q: What are the James Beard Awards?
A: The James Beard Awards are annual awards that recognize exceptional talent in the culinary and food media industries.
Q: Who won the Outstanding Bar award?
A: Kumiko, a Japanese-influenced bar in the West Loop, won the Outstanding Bar award.
Q: Who won the Best Chef: Great Lakes award?
A: Chef Noah Sandoval of Oriole won the Best Chef: Great Lakes award.
Q: What was a major theme of the awards ceremony?
A: The importance of immigrants in the hospitality industry and the need for diversity and inclusion were major themes of the ceremony.
