Introduction to Papa San
I don’t often hang in Hudson Yards, but for Papa San, I would. The fifth venture from chef Erik Ramirez and restaurateur Juan Correa, who began invigorating New York, Madrid and London’s dining scenes with modern Peruvian in 2015 and a Japanese-Peruvian fusion cuisine called Nikkei in 2019, opened to the public Thursday, Feb 18. Around 5 p.m. the following night, I walk, somehow outmaneuvering the rather harsh wind, from the after-work crowd funneling down 10th Avenue into the corner restaurant on West 34th Street.
The Ambiance of Papa San
Papa San is a sprawling street-level space in The Spiral Building (a sustainable glass skyscraper that debuted in 2023, with terraces that twirl around each of its 66 stories). Inside, the place glows magenta, thanks to the neon Papa San sign that hovers above the 18-seat circular bar. The dining room is large and narrow, with 120 table seats and a lengthy open kitchen packed with line chefs in blue caps working under yellow lights.
A Casual yet Inviting Space
It’s still happy hour, and I grab a booth on the bar side. From my perspective, it’s one of the best spots in the house and solidifies the Llama Group’s intention to keep Papa San casual, a deliberate move straying from their elevated contemporary approach at Llama Inn and more focused, technique-heavy approach at Llama San. My table is next to the one-story-high pink spiral staircase and a leafy tree, and has views of the buzzy bar scene, kitchen and commuters hustling in the world that exists around this pink Peruvian sanctuary inspired by Tokyo’s izakaya: Japanese pubs or bars serving drinks and shareable snacks, great for gathering late-night.
The Concept and Cuisine of Papa San
“Papa San is about accessibility and fun. It’s designed to be a lively, welcoming space where the flavors of Japanese-Peruvian cooking are prepared in a way that feels effortless and inviting,” Ramirez tells Observer.
Nikkei Cuisine
Nikkei is at the heart of all of Ramirez and Correa’s restaurants, from its more subtle influence on certain dishes at Llama Inn to the full menus at Llama San and Papa San. “Nikkei is about respecting the essence of both cuisines—honoring the precision, balance and purity of Japanese culinary traditions while embracing the bold, vibrant and ingredient-driven nature of Peruvian food,” Ramirez, who is of Nikkei descent, says. “The result is a cuisine that is both deeply rooted in history and constantly evolving, shaped by generations of cultural exchange.”
Menu Highlights
The menu does just that. Everything is meant to be shared, with a recommendation of three to four dishes per person (six to eight for a table of two), unless you opt for the “whole chicken experience for two.” For $90, this includes the entire bird, coursed out so diners can savor each part, including bone broth, yakitori (bite-sized grilled pieces), chicken breast escabeche cooked in vinegar, a chicken and egg rice bowl called oyakodon and a plate of the crispy skin.
Ceviches and Tiraditos
Typical of Peru, ceviches and tiraditos (thinly sliced raw fish in spicy sauce) start the menu off. Aside from the vegetarian “ceviche” of shiitake mushrooms with ponzu and walnuts, each dish is characterized by a unique feature: fruit. Grilled and marinated octopus with persimmons and wasabi; razor clams and lychee (one of Correa’s favorites), mackerel with koshihikari rice and banana; and fluke with avocado and grapes—a highlight of my meal.
Makis and Zensai
Makis (Peruvian sushi rolls) and zensai (“appetizah,” the menu cheerfully translates) accentuate Peru’s bold, bright flavors with Japanese ingredients and flair. The makis inch towards indulgent with creamy add-ins and fried shellfish. All three contain cucumber, avocado and seaweed rolled inside rice, then smothered in their defining toppings.
Drinks and Desserts
The drinks capitalize on adventurous flavor combinations, such as in the Mango No. 5 (sake, mango, black garlic and beer) or the Golden Curry (Toki whiskey, vanilla, salsa tres chiles, cilantro, clarified lemon and curry aji amarillo, indigenous to the Andes Mountains) or the non-alcoholic, velvety purple Chicha Morada, made with purple corn, pineapple, apple and cinnamon (delicious if you like something sweet, or better cut with soda water for less sugar).
Desserts
The desserts remained in Papa San’s lane of inventive Nekkei with joyful options like chicha morada kakigori—a flavored shaved ice served with rice pudding—and soft-serve ice cream honoring both Japan (vanilla soy milk with matcha and sesame oil) and Peru (lucuma with chocolate sauce, olive oil and salt).
Conclusion
Papa San is a unique and exciting addition to the New York dining scene, offering a lively and welcoming space where the flavors of Japanese-Peruvian cooking come together in a way that feels effortless and inviting. With its inventive menu, adventurous drinks, and joyful desserts, Papa San is a must-visit destination for anyone looking to experience the best of Nikkei cuisine.
FAQs
Q: What is the concept of Papa San?
A: Papa San is a Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant inspired by Tokyo’s izakaya, designed to be a lively and welcoming space where the flavors of Japanese-Peruvian cooking are prepared in a way that feels effortless and inviting.
Q: What is Nikkei cuisine?
A: Nikkei cuisine is a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines, honoring the precision, balance, and purity of Japanese culinary traditions while embracing the bold, vibrant, and ingredient-driven nature of Peruvian food.
Q: What are some highlights of the menu?
A: Some highlights of the menu include the ceviches and tiraditos, makis and zensai, and the “whole chicken experience for two.”
Q: What types of drinks are available?
A: The drinks menu includes Latin American and Japanese beer, wine from South America, Europe, and Oregon, sake, and adventurous cocktails and mocktails.
Q: What are some dessert options?
A: Dessert options include chicha morada kakigori, soft-serve ice cream honoring both Japan and Peru, and a sundae party with both ice creams, toppings, and churros.
