Introduction to Bar Bianchi
From the pocket-sized, sultry Elvis in Nolita to the effortlessly chic Tabac-inspired wine bar Le Dive in Dimes Square, Golden Age Hospitality founder Jon Neidich has proven he’s fluid in French cool-factor. It flows through his repertoire of downtown restaurants and bars, including The Nines and Monsieur. And with the opening of Bar Bianchi, a Milanese-style aperitivo in the East Village, Neidich proves he can speak Italian It-boy, too.
The Concept of Aperitivo
Aperitivo is the quintessential Italian pastime of gathering at local bars and cafés over drinks and complimentary snacks (“spuntini”) in the evening. It comes from the word “aperire,” meaning to open one’s senses and appetite before dinner, and is part of the fabric of Italian culture. Having lived in Milano, I am fastidious about American restaurants serving aperitivi authentically, and arrived at Bar Bianchi as one of its first official patrons to see whether it would.
Ambiance and Design
For an indoor-outdoor bar to really ooze Italian, the weather needs to cooperate. As the wet wind blew sideways down Avenue A on Bar Bianchi’s opening night, it was evident that the establishment would not have any balmy spring sun in its favor this evening. But between the good hospitality from my engaging server (a light-eyed blonde who was once a professional pool player), the Venetian plaster, and walls of green doors lined with hooks begging to be unlatched, it’s still got potential. The al fresco dining tables, barren the night it opened to the public on May 6, are stationed under a long awning and a boldface Bar Bianchi sign that casts red and green neon onto the sidewalk.
Interior Design
Inside, the restaurant checks the boxes of a Golden Hospitality hub. It falls somewhere between the picturesque daydream of a Wes Anderson shot (perhaps because it was inspired by Fondazione Prada’s Bar Luce in Milan, designed by the filmmaker) and the drippy velvet glow of Moulin Rouge (not just because Neidich’s last collaboration, Monsieur, was with Baz Luhrmann). Reminiscent of 1920s and ‘30s Italian cafés with touches of modernism, Bar Bianchi was designed by Neidich, Golden’s creative director Andrea Johansson and longtime collaborator Sam Buffa, of The Nines and Frenchette.
The Menu
The food and beverage menu (from chef Nicole Gajadhar and Libertine’s Cody Pruitt) is simple, straightforward Italian with a sizable selection of antipasti (ranging $7 to $24) for a seamless aperitivo. Should you make Bar Bianchi a dinner engagement, they also offer a few central Italian pasta dishes, such as cacio e pepe and pappardelle Bolognese, larger piatti (a $26 branzino, $32 steak tagliata or $76 veal Milanese for two) and desserts like affogato, tiramisú, gelato and a chocolate budino.
Aperitivo Experience
I went for aperitivo before a dinner reservation in Chelsea and opted for some classic, smaller bites. The prosciutto melone was a highlight. The execution of this dish relies solely on the quality of the prosciutto and the ripeness of the cantaloupe. If sourced well, like Bar Bianchi did, the deep, salty fabric of the aged pig melts into the juicy, sweet slices of melon and the flavors work their magic.
Drinks
Most of the food felt true to an Italian aperitivo format and, while not the meal of a lifetime, it is high quality, particularly for the pricing, and warrants a return. Being a bar focused on aperitivo, the drinks are half the equation here. Wines by the glass and bottle, as well as the cocktail list (consisting only of spritz, Negroni and three Bianchi classics), all stay within the confines of Italian borders. First and foremost, for me, is the Aperol Spritz. I ordered a large because it comes in a bubbly goblet that made me feel like I’d landed in the Navigli district of Milano. The drink had the ideal ratio of bitters to prosecco, served with an orange slice and Castelvetrano olive, just how I like it.
Authenticity and Cultural Accuracy
The defining benchmark for whether Bar Bianchi is truly an aperitivo came down to how the drink was served. Every restaurant in New York with “aperitivo” dusted in chalk across their café display sign has an immediate tell as to whether it’s authentic: olives. I don’t mean the type of marinated olives you order off the menu, but the kind served alongside your vino rosso or refreshingly biting Negroni—often with potato chips, and always on the house. At Bar Bianchi, the chips, served at no extra charge, were made in-house, waffle-knit with air pockets for extra crunch. The olives were plump Castelvetrano.
Conclusion
To solidify the success of Bar Bianchi, we’ll have to wait for the weather—once summer spills the crowd onto the street, sweating spuntini and sipping Aperol in the Golden Hospitality-induced glow of Italian etherealism. With its authentic aperitivo experience, delicious drinks, and beautiful design, Bar Bianchi is sure to become a favorite among New Yorkers and Italian food lovers alike.
FAQs
Q: What is aperitivo?
A: Aperitivo is the quintessential Italian pastime of gathering at local bars and cafés over drinks and complimentary snacks (“spuntini”) in the evening.
Q: What is the inspiration behind Bar Bianchi’s design?
A: Bar Bianchi’s design is inspired by 1920s and ‘30s Italian cafés with touches of modernism, and was designed by Neidich, Golden’s creative director Andrea Johansson and longtime collaborator Sam Buffa.
Q: What kind of food does Bar Bianchi serve?
A: Bar Bianchi serves simple, straightforward Italian food with a sizable selection of antipasti, central Italian pasta dishes, and desserts.
Q: Are the drinks at Bar Bianchi authentic to Italian aperitivo?
A: Yes, the drinks at Bar Bianchi, including the Aperol Spritz, are authentic to Italian aperitivo and are served with complimentary snacks, such as olives and potato chips.
Q: Is Bar Bianchi a good place to go for aperitivo?
A: Yes, Bar Bianchi is a great place to go for aperitivo, with its authentic experience, delicious drinks, and beautiful design.
