Raw Milk Jitters: The Unsanctioned Drink of LA’s Immigrant Subculture
From Udder to Cup
Drinking unpasteurized milk is an old custom in dairy-producing regions of Mexico, especially in the state of Jalisco. Ranchers there refer to fresh milk on its own as leche bronca, or “wild milk.” When spiked with alcohol de caña or tequila, the pajarete is associated with promoting vitality and good health. Some ranchers use it as a basic breakfast before a day on the land.
The Custom is a Mostly Grandfatherly Affair
The pajarete scene is a mostly male, though some women and families participate. In some cases, pajarete locations morph into full-blown daytime parties, with live banda music, taqueros, beers, and other alcohols. Younger drinkers might still be partying from the night before. Unknown numbers of ranch homes in the region offer fresh goat or cow milk like this, from before dawn till the animals tap out (usually by 8 a.m., sometimes earlier).
‘They Hate Everything About It’
There’s a growing curiosity in Los Angeles and the broader U.S. of ancestral ferments from Mexico. These include tepache, made of fermented pineapple rinds; tejuino, made of fermented milled corn and lime juice; tuba, of fermented palm sap; or the Korean unfiltered rice wine makgeolli. The pajarete is not technically a ferment, but its cultural effect is similar: First- or second-generation Mexican Americans search for experiences that make them feel momentarily transported to Mexico’s romantic highlands, around horses and cattle, getting their jeans dirty.
‘It’s Fun, You Get Faded, and You Eat and Drink’
For Robert Robles, participating in the early-morning fresh milk cocktail scene is about preserving a sliver of Mexican culture while still thriving in the United States. A 49-year-old native of Boyle Heights, he eventually moved to a bigger property in the Inland Empire, capturing his stake of the American Dream. He brings his children sometimes for fresh milk in Muscoy and said he will continue to do so.
Conclusion
The pajarete scene in LA’s immigrant subculture is a complex phenomenon that reflects the region’s historical neglect of unincorporated communities. While some view it as a nuisance, others see it as a way to preserve cultural heritage. As the article illustrates, the practice is not without controversy, with some health inspectors and law enforcement officials issuing citations or taking action in response to neighbor complaints. Despite this, the pajarete scene persists, with many enthusiasts citing the unique cultural experience it provides.
FAQs
* What is a pajarete?
A pajarete is a traditional Mexican drink made with raw milk, often spiked with alcohol de caña or tequila.
* Where is the pajarete scene most prevalent?
The pajarete scene is most prevalent in unincorporated areas of Southern California, particularly in agricultural or equestrian zones.
* Is the pajarete scene illegal?
The pajarete scene is not illegal, but it is unlicensed and unregulated, and some health inspectors and law enforcement officials have issued citations or taken action in response to neighbor complaints.
* What is the cultural significance of the pajarete scene?
The pajarete scene is significant for its role in preserving Mexican cultural heritage and providing a sense of community for participants. It also reflects the region’s historical neglect of unincorporated communities and the desire for a sense of belonging among its residents.
