Magic with Masa

Introduction to Masa

Masa, which translates to dough, is the foundation of various traditional dishes in North and South America, including tortillas, tostadas, tamales, pozole, arepas, and gorditas. It is made from field corn that has been nixtamalized, a process involving cooking in an alkaline solution, typically water and lime, and then grinding into a dough. This dough can be used fresh or dehydrated to produce masa harina, which resembles corn flour and cornmeal.

The Significance of Nixtamalization

Nixtamalization is a crucial step in creating masa, as it not only intensifies the corn’s flavor but also enhances its nutritional value by drawing out calcium, vitamin B3, and protein. Moreover, this process makes the corn easier to digest. Without nixtamalization, corn lacks significant nutritional benefits. The impact of nixtamalization on ancient Mesoamerican cultures was profound, transforming fledgling villages into thriving civilizations. Today, nixtamalized corn is a key component in a variety of commercially produced foods, including chips, tortillas, and tamales.

Making Masa at Home

While it is possible to nixtamalize corn for masa at home, the process is slow and messy. A more accessible option is to opt for locally made masa products, such as fresh artisan tortillas made from heirloom varieties of corn like rose, blue, pale gold, bold yellow, and white. These varieties deliver a depth of flavor that is hard to replicate with commercially available corn.

Innovations in Masa Production

Companies like Nixta, based in north Minneapolis, are leading a movement in making their own masa using non-GMO heirloom corn varieties. This effort not only brings genetic diversity to the land but also supports pollinators and bolsters growers in the Mexican and Native American communities. Innovations in equipment have made it more feasible for restaurants and producers to create their own masa, contributing to a growing trend of craft masa.

Using Masa Harina in Baked Goods

Masa harina, or cornmeal, can be substituted into a variety of familiar baked goods, adding a unique tangy note. Try replacing cornmeal with masa harina in your favorite cornbread and muffin recipes. It also works well mixed into batters for savory and sweet pancakes. Adding masa harina to brownie, sugar cookie, biscotti, and shortbread recipes can enhance their flavors, simply by substituting ¼ cup of masa harina for wheat flour.

Working with Fresh Tortillas

Fresh tortillas, now widely available, offer an intense, earthy, corny flavor and a softer, chewier texture compared to commercial tortillas. They can be served in a variety of ways, whether as part of a Mexican dish or filled with chicken, roasted vegetables, ham, and cheese. For the best flavor, warm the tortillas on a comal or skillet before serving. Avoid microwaving, as it can make them soft and floppy. Once warmed, wrap them in a dish towel and use immediately. Fresh tortillas can be stored in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator for up to three weeks or frozen and then thawed before heating on the stovetop.

Craft Masa Movement

The craft masa movement, similar to the sourdough movement before it, reflects a hunger for ancient traditions and culinary wisdom. Masa, as an elemental ingredient, inspires new ways to relate to food that is both timeless and dynamic. Its accessibility and deliciousness have made it a staple in many kitchens, from professional to home cooks.

Recipes Featuring Masa

1-2-3 Sheet Pan Tostadas with Fresh Vegetables

This recipe serves 4 and is a versatile way to enjoy masa. Fresh tortillas are crisped in a hot oven and then topped with a variety of fillings, such as black beans, tofu, or chicken, and finished with a colorful vegetable topping. The recipe is easily customizable and makes great use of leftovers.

For the Vegetable Topping:

• 3 medium bell peppers, mix of red, orange, and yellow
• 1 pint cherry tomatoes, sliced
• 1 c. sliced green onions, mostly white part
• 1 tbsp. avocado or olive oil
• 1 tbsp. fresh lime juice
• ¼ c. chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 tsp. Tajin seasoning, or more to taste

For the Filling:

• 1 tbsp. avocado or olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed
• ½ c. chopped yellow onion
• 1 c. canned chopped fire roasted tomatoes with their liquid
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 chipotle chile in adobo, chopped
• 1 (14- to 16-oz.) can black beans, drained, or 1 (14-oz.) box extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into 2-in. cubes, or 2 c. cooked skinless chicken meat, cut into 2-in. cubes
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 8 fresh tortillas
• Generous pinch coarse salt

For Garnishes:

• ¼ c. crumbled queso fresco or shredded cheddar cheese
• 1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced
• ¼ c. chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish
• ¼ c. sour cream or plain, Greek style yogurt
• Salsa, for serving

Directions:

1. To make the veggie topping: In a medium bowl, toss the peppers, tomatoes, and green onions with the oil and lime juice. Toss in the cilantro and mix. Season with the Tajin to taste. Set aside.
2. To make the filling: Film a medium saucepan with the oil and set over medium heat. Add the garlic and onions and cook just until soft, about 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, cumin, oregano, and chile. Bring to a simmer, then add the beans (or tofu, or chicken) and continue cooking for about 3 to 5 minutes so the flavors come together. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
3. To finish the tostadas: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Arrange the tortillas on a baking sheet and bake until crisp, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove and sprinkle with salt while still hot. Pile the filling on top of the tostadas, and then distribute the veggie topping over the filling. Sprinkle the cheese over the top. Serve garnished with the avocado, cilantro, and sour cream and pass the salsa on the side.

Spring Pozole

This recipe serves 4 to 6 and showcases the versatility of nixtamalized corn in a traditional Mexican soup. The use of roasted vegetables deepens the flavors, making for a hearty and delicious meal.

For the Soup:

• 1 onion, cut into 1-in. chunks
• 5 cloves garlic, peeled
• 1 lb. tomatillos, husks removed and quartered
• 3 poblano chiles, halved, seeded and cut into 1-in. strips
• 1 jalapeño, halved and seeded
• 2 c. cherry tomatoes
• ¼ c. avocado or vegetable oil
• Pinch coarse salt
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 4 c. vegetable or chicken broth
• 1 to 2 tsp. Tajin seasoning, to taste
• 10 to 12 oz. fresh spinach, torn
• 2 c. cooked hominy, drained
• 1 tbsp. fresh lime juice, or more to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the Garnishes:

• 4 to 6 radishes, thinly sliced
• ½ c. cilantro
• ¼ c. shredded cheese
• Lime wedges
• Chips for garnish and to pass on the side

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. Spread the onions, garlic, tomatillos, chiles, jalapeño, and tomatoes on the baking sheets, being careful they don’t touch. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle with a little coarse salt. Roast the vegetables until nicely browned and the tomatoes are shriveled, about 15 to 20 minutes, shaking the pan about halfway through.
3. Transfer the vegetables to a large deep pot. Stir in the cumin, broth, Tajin, spinach, and hominy. Set over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring, and cook until the spinach has wilted, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the lime juice and season with the salt and pepper; taste and adjust the seasonings.
4. Serve topped with the radishes, cilantro, cheese, and chips and pass the lime wedges and more chips on the side.

Gorditas

Makes 16 small gorditas. Gorditas are thicker and heartier than tortillas and are easy to make at home. They can be cooked on a hot griddle and served warm alongside soup or stew, or split and filled with beans, meat, veggies, and cheeses.

Ingredients:

• 2 c. masa harina
• 1 ¾ to 2 c. water
• 1 tsp. salt

Directions:

1. In a large bowl, mix together the masa harina, water, and salt to create a soft, stiff dough. Using your hands, scoop out 16 pieces and roll into 16 little balls.
2. Lightly flatten the masa balls between