Cambodian American Chefs Finding Success and Raising Their Culture’s Profile

Introduction to Cambodian American Cuisine

Cambodian American chefs are making a name for themselves in the culinary world, introducing traditional dishes and putting their own twist on them. Chef Phila Lorn, owner of Mawn in Philadelphia, is a prime example. He opened his restaurant two years ago, not aiming for "quote-unquote authentic" Cambodian food, but rather creating a space that represented his dual cultures – Cambodian and Philly.

When he approached some Cambodian teen patrons, he braced himself for questioning. However, instead of criticism, he received praise and appreciation for representing their culture. "Someone’s going to say something like, ‘That’s not how my mom makes her oxtail soup,’" Lorn said. "So I walk up to the table. I’m like, ‘How is everything?’ And the kid looks up to me and he goes, ‘It doesn’t even matter, dude. So glad you’re here.’" This moment made Lorn realize that Mawn was more than a noodle shop – it meant representation.

The Rise of Cambodian American Chefs

In recent years, enterprising Cambodian American chefs have come into their own, introducing traditional dishes or putting their own twist on them. Many of them were raised in families who fled the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror, which began 50 years ago and killed about 1.7 million people. Since then, the Cambodian community in the U.S. has grown and set down roots. Through food, these chefs are putting the attention back on Cambodian heritage and culture, rather than that traumatic history.

Dr. Leakhena Nou, a sociology professor at California State University, Long Beach, says the Cambodian diaspora is often seen by others too narrowly through the lens of victimhood. "It’s a part of their history so they shouldn’t run away from it but at the same time they should force others to understand that that’s not the only part of their heritage, their historical identity," she said.

What is Cambodian Cuisine?

Cambodian food has sometimes been hastily labeled as a mild mix of Thai and Vietnamese with some Chinese and Indian influence. However, it has its own native spices and flavors that have been used throughout Southeast Asia. Khmer food emphasizes seafood and meats, vegetables, noodles, rice, and fermentation. Salty and sour are prevalent tastes, Nou says. "It’s actually a very healthy diet for the most part in terms of fresh vegetables. Cambodians love to eat fresh vegetables dipped with some sauce," Nou said.

Cambodian Migration to the U.S.

It was a half-century ago, on April 15, 1975, that the communist Khmer Rouge took over Cambodia. For the next four years, an estimated one-quarter of the population was wiped out due to starvation, execution, and illness. Refugees came in waves to the U.S. in the 1970s and 1980s. Most took on low-level entry jobs with few language barriers, Nou said. These included manufacturing, meatpacking, and agricultural labor. Many worked in Chinese restaurants and doughnut shops.

The U.S. Cambodian population has jumped 50% in the last 20 years to an estimated 360,000 people, according to the Census 2023 American Community Survey.

Cooking Cambodian American

Lorn’s family settled in Philadelphia in 1985. The only child born in the U.S., he was named after the city (but pronounced pee-LAH’). Like a lot of Asian American kids, Lorn was "the smelly kid" teased for not-American food in his lunch. But, he said, defending his lunchbox made him stronger. And he got the last laugh. "It’s cool now to be 38 and have that same lunchbox (food) but on plates and we’re selling it for $50 a plate," said Lorn, who opened Mawn with wife Rachel after they both had worked at other restaurants.

Indeed, besides popular noodle soups, Mawn has plates like the $60 steak