Introduction to Innovative Ice Cream Making
If you’re intimidated by the idea of making ice cream at home, just think of it as making soup. That’s advice from Tyler Malek of Salt & Straw, the innovative gourmet ice cream maker known for its ever-changing lick-able treats. Making a pint of ice cream is very similar to making a pot of soup where if you have a good stock recipe — like chicken stock, vegetable stock — then you start just adding to it until it tastes good.
The Base is the Base
That ice cream base is also at the heart of Malek’s latest cookbook, “America’s Most Iconic Ice Creams: A Salt & Straw Cookbook.” Just as another summer beckons, he and co-author JJ Goode teach the fundamentals, which then can be built on to make all kinds of delicious treats. That means learning the bases for gelato, custard, sorbet, coconut and ice cream. Only down the road can you confidently turn them into awesome flavors like Strawberry Honey Balsamic with Black Pepper, or Banana Parsnip Sherbet.
Mastering the Basics
The cookbook focuses on 10 iconic flavors: vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, coffee, green tea, pistachio, cookie dough, salted caramel, cereal and rum raisin. Once you’ve mastered their “core principles in flavor, in technique,” Malek says, “you can just go wild.” And wild it gets in the cookbook, with flavors like Toasted Sourdough, Chocolate and EVOO, and Lemon Earl Grey Shortbread.
New Flavors Every Month
Malek and his cousin, Kim, became ice cream entrepreneurs in 2011 when they opened a small food cart in Portland. Since then, they’ve expanded to over 40 stores in seven states, becoming known for their refreshing and off-beat approach and rotating menu, with new flavors added every month. Other flavors have included Malted Potato Chip Cupcake and Black Olive Brittle and Goat Cheese. For Thanksgiving, they once offered Caramelized Turkey & Cranberry Sauce. “I’ve written 2,500 recipes and maybe 20,000 fails,” says Malek.
The Science Behind the Ice Cream
Salt & Straw leans on xanthan gum, which Malek uses to combat “heat shock,” when ice cream melts and freezes again into bigger crystals. (“It’s as innocuous as cornstarch or baking soda,” he writes.) He also harnesses the power of acids, like citric, malic and tartaric, calling them “an ice cream maker’s secret weapon.”
Recipes from the Cookbook
Here’s a recipe from the new cookbook “America’s Most Iconic Ice Creams: A Salt & Straw Cookbook” by Tyler Malek and JJ Goode:
SALTED MALTED CHOCOLATE CHIP DOUGH
Makes about 2½ pints
Ingredients
- 3 cups 17% Butterfat Base (see separate recipe below)
- 1½ teaspoons molasses (not blackstrap)
- 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
- ½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt
- 1 cup packed Malted Cookie Dough (recipe follows), frozen
- ¾ cup Malted Fudge (recipe follows)
Directions
In a medium bowl, combine the ice cream base, molasses, vanilla and salt, and whisk until smooth. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and turn on the machine. Churn just until the mixture has the texture of soft serve, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the machine. Alternate spooning layers of the ice cream and generous dollops of the cookie dough and fudge into freezer-safe containers. Freeze until firm, at least 6 hours or for up to 3 months.
Salt & Straw’s 17% Butterfat Base
Makes about 3 cups
Ingredients
- ½ cup granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons nonfat dry milk powder
- ¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
- 1 1/8 cups whole milk
- 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
- 1 1/8 cups heavy cream, very cold
Directions
In a small bowl, stir together the sugar, milk powder, and xanthan gum. In a medium pot, stir together the whole milk and corn syrup. Add the sugar mixture and immediately whisk vigorously until smooth. Set the pot over medium heat and cook, stirring often and reducing the heat if necessary to prevent a simmer, just until the sugar has fully dissolved, about 3 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Add the cold cream and stir until fully combined.
Malted Cookie Dough
Makes about 1 ½ cups
Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- ¼ cup lightly packed light brown sugar
- 1 teaspoon flaky sea salt
- 2 tablespoons heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
- 1 teaspoon molasses (not blackstrap)
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- ½ cup all-purpose flour, toasted
- 2 tablespoons malt powder
- ¼ cup finely chopped (chip-size pieces) dark chocolate
Directions
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, cream the butter, both sugars, and the salt on medium high speed, scraping down the sides as necessary, until the butter takes on a lighter color, about 2 minutes. Stop the mixer and add the cream, corn syrup, molasses, and vanilla, then mix on medium-low speed until the mixture is just combined, about 1 minute more.
Malted Fudge
Makes about 2 cups
Ingredients
- 1/3 cup malt powder
- 1/2 cup light corn syrup
- 1/3 cup heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 2 teaspoons cocoa powder
- 1/8 teaspoon xanthan gum
- 1/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt
- 3/4 cup chopped (chip-size pieces) good dark chocolate
Directions
In a small saucepan, combine the malt powder and 1/4 cup cold water and whisk until most of the lumps are broken up. Add the corn syrup, cream, and butter and cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture comes to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, add the cocoa powder, xanthan gum, and salt and continue to whisk until the cocoa powder is dissolved and the mixture looks glossy, about 3 minutes.
Conclusion
With the release of their new cookbook, Tyler Malek and JJ Goode are sharing their secrets and recipes for making unique and delicious ice cream flavors at home. By mastering the basics and experimenting with new ingredients and techniques, home cooks can create their own iconic ice cream flavors.
FAQs
Q: What is the key to making good ice cream at home?
A: According to Tyler Malek, the key to making good ice cream at home is to start with a good base recipe and then experiment with different flavors and ingredients.
Q: What is xanthan gum and how is it used in ice cream making?
A: Xanthan gum is a common ingredient used in ice cream making to combat "heat shock" and improve the texture of the ice cream.
Q: Can I make ice cream without an ice cream maker?
A: Yes, you can make ice cream without an ice cream maker by using a blender or food processor to churn the mixture and then freezing it in a container.
Q: What is the best way to store ice cream bases and mix-ins?
A: The best way to store ice cream bases and mix-ins is to keep them in airtight containers in the fridge or freezer to maintain their flavor and texture.
