Koshari, a Classic Egyptian Dish
Chef Michael Mina’s love for koshari, a popular Egyptian street food, has deep roots in his childhood. "It’s as classic as it gets," he notes. "That’s street food in Egypt. It’s like risotto in Italy." Mina’s family moved from Egypt to Washington state when he was just two years old, but his mom, Minerva, continued to cook traditional Egyptian dishes, including koshari, which has remained a comfort food for Mina to this day.
In his new cookbook, "My Egypt" (Voracious 2024), Mina shares his mother’s recipe for koshari, a dish that requires a few hours of preparation but yields a satisfying meal for six to eight people. While the recipe may seem lengthy, Mina emphasizes that many of the components can be made ahead of time, making it manageable for home cooks.
The Recipe
INGREDIENTS
- Tomato sauce:
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
- 1 yellow onion, finely diced (about 2 cups)
- 2 teaspoons fine sea salt, divided, plus more to taste
- ÂĽ cup tomato paste
- 2 teaspoons ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
- ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 28-ounce can whole San Marzano tomatoes in their juices, coarsely chopped
- 1 cup water
- 5 garlic cloves, minced
- 3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
- Caramelized onions:
- 2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
- ½ cup vegetable oil
- Lentils and chickpeas:
- ½ cup beluga lentils
- 2 cups water
- Fine sea salt
- 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
- 1 lime, halved
- Vermicelli rice:
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- ½ yellow onion, finely diced
- 2/3 cup vermicelli pasta, broken into 1-inch pieces
- 1½ cups Calrose rice or other medium-grain rice
- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 2ÂĽ cups water
- ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper
- Optional:
- 1 cup elbow macaroni, cooked according to package directions
- Crispy onions to garnish
- 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley to garnish
DIRECTIONS
- To make the tomato sauce, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes.
- Add the tomato paste, cumin, Aleppo pepper, and black pepper and cook, stirring often, until the paste changes from bright red to brick red, about 2 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir in the tomatoes, remaining 1½ teaspoons salt, and water. Bring to a brisk simmer, then lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 15 minutes.
- Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden, about 30 seconds. Right before the garlic browns, remove from the heat and pour in the vinegar (this stops the garlic from overcooking), swirling the pan to incorporate. Pour the garlic vinegar into the tomato sauce and stir to combine. (If you want the sauce smooth, use a hand blender to blend the tomato sauce.) The sauce can be made a day ahead and refrigerated.
- To make the caramelized onions, line a plate with paper towels. Separate the onion slices into individual pieces as much as possible. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat, stir in the onions, then stop stirring and allow them to brown along the edges, about 3 minutes. Stir to redistribute the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are dark golden brown, about 15 minutes. Transfer to the paper towels.
- In a medium saucepan, combine the lentils, water, and a generous pinch of salt. Simmer over medium heat until cooked through but not completely soft, 15-17 minutes. Drain, then rinse well in cold water to stop the cooking. Drain again. In the same saucepan used to cook the lentils, add the chickpeas. Squeeze both lime halves over the chickpeas and season with a few pinches of salt, then return the lentils to the pan and warm over medium heat.
- To make the vermicelli rice, heat the oil in a medium saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until it is soft and golden brown, about 8 minutes. Add the vermicelli and cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until golden, then stir in the rice and salt and cook, letting the rice toast slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the water and increase the heat to high. When the water is boiling, give the pot a stir, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is cooked through, and the water has been fully absorbed, about 15 minutes. Uncover, fluff with a fork, and sprinkle the Aleppo pepper on top. Cover and keep warm.
- To serve, put the warm lentils, chickpeas, and macaroni (if using) in a large bowl. Add the rice and stir everything together with a fork, trying as much as possible not to break up the rice pieces. Taste, adding more salt if desired. Serve koshari on a rimmed platter or in individual bowls. Spoon tomato sauce along the rim as well as a few spoonfuls on top (you don’t have to use all the sauce). Sprinkle the caramelized onions, crispy onions (if using), and parsley on top and serve extra sauce and onions at the table.
BUYING VERMICELLI
Vermicelli for rice pilaf and other dishes is sold already broken into small pieces and can be found in Middle Eastern or Indian markets labeled "Vermicelli" or "Vermicelli Pasta." You can also take angel-hair pasta and break it up into pieces. Avoid vermicelli noodles made with rice flour or other non-wheat starches, which are used in Vietnamese and other Southeast Asian preparations.
CONCLUSION
Koshari, a dish that has been a staple in Mina’s family for generations, is more than just a meal – it’s a connection to his cultural heritage. With this recipe, Mina hopes to share that connection with others, inspiring the next generation of Egyptian chefs and food enthusiasts to explore the rich flavors and traditions of his homeland.
FAQS
Q: What is koshari?
A: Koshari is a popular Egyptian street food made with lentils, chickpeas, tomato sauce, and caramelized onions, served over rice or vermicelli pasta.
Q: What is vermicelli?
A: Vermicelli is a type of pasta made from wheat flour, used in many Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes, including koshari. It can be found in Middle Eastern or Indian markets, or substituted with broken angel-hair pasta.