Fashion Models and the Rise of AI
Introduction to the Issue
Fashion model Hannah James faced a dilemma as she weighed whether to digitally clone herself. On one hand, the 25-year-old worries digital replicas of models could render her job obsolete. On the other hand, the Los Angeles model wants to get ahead of artificial intelligence and use it to potentially make more money before it’s too late.
The Digital Cloning Process
She partnered this year with Kartel.ai, a Beverly Hills startup that’s building a platform for brands and businesses to license the likenesses of models for a fee. Kartel.ai helps models create digital replicas of themselves that can be hired for advertising campaigns. “It’s crazy to see what they can create in hours,” said James, who has modeled for a decade. “It’s beautiful, but at the same time, it’s scary.”
Industry Impact and Concerns
Models like James are contending with how to retain control over their careers as the rise of AI-powered tools that can quickly generate images and videos alters the creative process. Advancements in AI have made it easier to generate digital clones of models or virtual people who don’t exist in real life. Unlike real people, AI models and digital clones don’t get sick or deal with bad-skin days. AI models can be in many places at the same time, and they don’t need a break as campaigns try different shots, locations, and products.
Use of AI in Fashion Campaigns
Applying generative AI — the kind of technology used by ChatGPT — to generate and manipulate fashion shoots and other images has been taking off this year, sparking debate about whether AI will take away jobs in an industry already rife with concerns about financial exploitation. Some of the brands experimenting with AI models have faced backlash from consumers concerned about job displacement and unrealistic beauty standards.
Recent Examples and Backlash
In the August issue of Vogue, widely considered a fashion bible, Los Angeles brand Guess had an ad featuring a curvy blond AI model in a light blue floral romper. Swedish fast fashion retailer H&M showcased the digital “twins” of some of its models in July. While the brands received attention for using cutting-edge technology and innovation, they also faced criticism.
Industry Response and Ethical Considerations
“Technology is definitely reshaping the modeling industry, and it’s doing so by introducing synthetic models that threaten jobs and by digitizing real people, often without clear standards for consent or compensation,” said Sara Ziff, founder and executive director of the Model Alliance, a nonprofit in New York that advocates for workers’ rights in the fashion industry. Many models aren’t unionized because they’re often independent contractors. While the job appears glamorous, models deal with myriad challenges, including late payments, financial debt, eating disorders, and sexual harassment, Ziff said.
Economic Impact on Models
Los Angeles is a hub for fashion, modeling, and social media influencers. In 2024, there were 880 models employed in California, with most of those jobs in the Los Angeles metropolitan area, including Anaheim and Long Beach, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Nationwide, there were an estimated 5,350 modeling jobs that year. The agency projects that employment of models nationwide will remain unchanged from 2023 to 2033, noting that there are cheaper options on social media or that companies could reuse images of models and products.
Compensation and Job Security
Models are still trying to sort out how to get fairly compensated when brands use their digital likeness, and the rates can vary. Models may earn less from jobs their digital clones perform compared with booking in-person shoots, but they might also be able to complete more jobs without the need to travel to a location. Ben Kusin, co-founder of Kartel.ai, said the use of AI and digital clones could help brands cut down on the other expenses tied to producing an ad campaign, such as booking travel and employing stylists to do hair and makeup.
Future of Modeling and AI
With licensing of AI clones, models will still be paid and can choose whether they allow a brand to use their likeness. “A lot of folks need to re-skill quickly to be able to survive what’s the upcoming transition into this new world of AI-generated media,” he said. Brands still have to tread carefully. In 2023, Levi’s faced criticism after the company said it was partnering with AI company Lalaland.ai to create AI models with a variety of skin tones and body types, sparking questions about why they didn’t just hire more diverse models.
Conclusion
The integration of AI models and digital clones in the fashion industry is a complex issue, with both potential benefits and drawbacks. While AI can offer efficiency and cost savings, it also raises concerns about job displacement, consent, and compensation for models. As the industry continues to evolve, it’s crucial for brands, models, and advocates to work together to establish clear guidelines and standards for the use of AI in fashion, ensuring that the benefits are shared fairly and that the rights of all parties are respected.
FAQs
Q: What is the main concern for fashion models with the rise of AI models and digital clones?
A: The main concern is job displacement and the potential for AI models to render human models obsolete.
Q: How do AI models and digital clones work in advertising campaigns?
A: AI models and digital clones can be used in place of human models, allowing for quicker and potentially cheaper production of ad campaigns. They can be licensed by brands for a fee, with the original model having control over their digital likeness.
Q: What are the potential benefits of AI models and digital clones for brands?
A: The potential benefits include cost savings on production, the ability to produce content quickly, and the flexibility to use models in multiple locations and campaigns without the need for physical travel.
Q: What are the ethical considerations surrounding the use of AI models and digital clones?
A: Ethical considerations include ensuring fair compensation for models, respecting their consent and control over their digital likeness, and addressing concerns about unrealistic beauty standards and job displacement.
