Introduction to Betsy
Pardon me a deep dive into the murky waters of cliché, but Betsy (the restaurant), which sits some distance up Lake Avenue in Altadena amid the ruins of January’s Eaton fire, is a phoenix of a destination, rising from the devastation that once surround it, to feed locals a very personal cuisine — with hope on every plate, and in every bite.
The Restaurant and Its Significance
This minimalist storefront isn’t so much a restaurant, as it is a testament to our ability to carry on, despite the odds. Dining at Betsy feels like a communion of survivors. It’s a meal that makes you believe in the enduring strength of the human spirit.
The Chef and the Menu
Chef Tyler Wells has turned what was Bernee into Betsy, with a blazing wood burning hearth behind the counter — which gives you a front-row seat to the preparation of every dish.
The flames that devastated Altadena have been tamed, turned from a destructive power, to a culinary force. It’s a bit like being witness to human history, with flames brought under control, and made to do brilliant things to meat and fish. And focaccia, which is as good as bread can be. It’s not so much a dish, as it is a symbol. A statement that Altadena is back in every bite.
Location and Ambiance
Traveling up Lake to Betsy, near the intersection of Lake and Mariposa Street, is a sobering experience. The ruins are mostly cleared, leaving a moonscape of vacant lots waiting for the return of life. Though Mariposa just west of Lake was not spared the flames, the building that houses Betsy still stands, rebuilt and cleared of smoke.
Betsy (3.5 stars; 875 E. Mariposa St., Altadena; 626-345-5492; www.betsyaltadena.com) is an oddment of a storefront, with a handful of tables on the street in front, more tables along the wall within, a small dining area just where you enter the room — and, of course, the counter.
The Dining Experience
There’s a sense of communion among the diners. Seated at the counter, I exchanged recent dining experiences with folks sitting next to me, and compared notes on the menu. Which, like the room, is notable for its simplicity. This is a small restaurant with a small menu. Small — but carefully curated.
It’s hard not to find something you’d want. And to consider something else that you promise yourself you’ll order next time.
This is food that’s both traditional and modern at the same time. The dishes aren’t especially peppered with obscure culinary nomenclature that has you heading for Google to figure out what the heck exactly you’re ordering. Though it’s not 100 percent clear either.
Menu Highlights
The “wanderer” in the Wanderer New York strip steak refers to meat from the free-range, barley fed Wanderer brand of Melbourne, Australia.
The Payne walnuts in the mixed lettuce and shallot vinaigrette salad refer to the walnuts developed by George Payne in San Juan Bautista in the late 1800s. Raw and organic. The Mountain Magic tomatoes served blistered with the locally caught fish of the day are notably sweet, larger than a cherry, but not much.
Conclusion
Betsy is a testament to the power of hope and resilience in the face of adversity. With its carefully curated menu, warm ambiance, and commitment to using high-quality ingredients, it is a must-visit destination for foodies and anyone looking for a unique dining experience. Whether you’re a local or just visiting Altadena, Betsy is sure to leave a lasting impression.
FAQs
Betsy
- Rating: 3.5 stars
- Where: 875 E Mariposa St., Altadena
- Information: 626-345-5492; www.betsyaltadena.com
- When: Dinner, every day
- Details: Wine; reservations very essential
- The food: Rising from the ashes of January’s Eaton fire, at the top of Lake Avenue and surrounded by ruins, this small storefront serves brilliant food prepared in glowing ovens behind the comfortable counter. It’s a statement on a plate that Altadena will rise again.
- How much: About $75 per person
- Suggested dishes: 6 Appetizers ($14-$24), 5 Entrees ($29-$140), 4 Side Dishes ($14-$16), 3 Desserts ($12-$14)
- Credit cards: MC, V
- What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)
