After 101 Years, the Doors Close on L.A.’s Original Pantry Cafe
A Legacy of 24-Hour Service and Late-Night Eats
Downtown Los Angeles on Sunday lost another iconic eatery with the closure of the Original Pantry Cafe, which had been serving up hot coffee, burgers, and breakfast platters since 1924. News of the planned closure drew brisk business as patrons sought a farewell meal at the diner on the corner of 9th and South Figueroa streets.
A Bittersweet Farewell
The shuttering itself was bitter. Once the doors were closed, the diner’s remaining 25 workers gathered inside, received manila envelopes containing their final checks, and, with support from their labor union, refused to leave. “It’s still open from their perspective,” said Kurt Petersen, co-president of the Unite Here Local 11 labor union that has represented workers at the diner for decades. “They told management they want them to change their mind.”
A Legacy of Resilience
The restaurant built its Los Angeles legacy not on elegant fare (it had a mediocre 3.7 rating on Yelp) but on its 24-hour service, making it a haven for night owls and early risers. The diner had survived past threats, dodging a freeway project in the 1950s by moving its location to make way for an off-ramp. Former Mayor Richard Riordan even took over the restaurant in 1981 as part of a larger land deal.
A Bumpy Road to Closure
The isolation policies of the COVID-19 pandemic delivered a heavy blow, forcing the diner to limit its hours. Despite $1.7 million in federal loans (all but $500,000 of it forgiven) to preserve 82 jobs at the restaurant, workers said only about two dozen employees remained by Sunday’s closure. Los Angeles court records show a proposed class-action lawsuit was filed in April 2023 on behalf of Pantry workers alleging unpaid wages for overtime, rest, and meal breaks. Two weeks later, Riordan died. The wage case remained in settlement talks as recently as February, filings show.
The Final Days
Ownership of the diner transferred to Riordan’s trust, which said it sought to sell the asset to support its philanthropic endeavors. The union attempted to negotiate terms that would require any new owner to honor the existing contract. That didn’t happen, and the labor union filed a grievance with the National Labor Relations Board. After the diner’s doors closed Sunday, a representative of the trust arrived and attempted to distribute envelopes containing final paychecks. When workers would not step up to take them, she set them on a table.
A New Chapter
Alex, a 24-year veteran of the diner, said he had no idea what might happen next week, other than that the union would have people out front with placards and signs. Union officials said they did not know if there was already a new owner in the wings. The Pantry’s online ordering service remained operational Sunday, and a Times reporter was able to place a takeout order for French toast the next day.
Conclusion
The closure of the Original Pantry Cafe marks the end of an era in Los Angeles’ culinary scene. While the diner’s 24-hour service and late-night eats will be missed, its legacy as a symbol of resilience and community will be remembered for years to come.
FAQs
* What is the reason for the closure of the Original Pantry Cafe?
+ The COVID-19 pandemic and resulting isolation policies forced the diner to limit its hours, leading to a significant reduction in staff and ultimately, its closure.
* What is the future of the diner’s property?
+ The ownership of the diner has transferred to Riordan’s trust, which is seeking to sell the asset to support its philanthropic endeavors.
* What is the status of the wage case against the diner?
+ The case remains in settlement talks, with a proposed class-action lawsuit filed on behalf of Pantry workers alleging unpaid wages for overtime, rest, and meal breaks.
