The Rise of Doña Leti’s
Birria tacos have become a staple of Houston’s food scene, thanks in large part to Doña Leti’s. The restaurant’s exponential growth can be attributed to its loyal customer base, which has been built over decades of hard work by Ana Leticia Hernandez, also known as Doña Leti. Hernandez’s journey began in the late 1990s when she moved to the United States with her three children after losing her husband in a car accident. To provide for her family, she worked multiple jobs, eventually starting a small fruit stand in her apartment complex in Southwest Houston.
Humble Beginnings
The fruit stand, named Frutas Doña Leti, slowly gained popularity, and Hernandez began to sell her products out of a pickup truck and later a trailer. As the business grew, she introduced dishes like tacos to her menu, which became a hit with the lunchtime crowd. Her son, Julio Lozano, recalls, "The more people were responding to [the food] and reacting to it, the more we were able to add to the menu." Hernandez’s cooking was a key factor in the business’s success, and her children played an essential role in helping her run the operation.
The Viral Moment
In 2019, Julio and his wife, Kalli, joined Hernandez and his sister, Marcela, to help expand the business. They created an Instagram account, dropped "Frutas" from the name, and started selling birria tacos as a limited menu item on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. A video of Julio dipping a taco into the consommé went viral, and the restaurant’s popularity skyrocketed. The demand was so high that they had to transition to a brick-and-mortar location, which they opened in 2020, not far from the original food truck spot on S Post Oak Road.
Overcoming Challenges
The first year of operation coincided with the COVID-19 pandemic, which presented significant challenges. The restaurant was only allowed to open at 50% capacity, but Julio views this as a blessing in disguise, as it helped them navigate the growing pains of a new business. The family worked tirelessly, often putting in 20-hour workdays, but their hard work paid off, and loyal customers continued to support the restaurant.
Tragedy and Resilience
Tragedy struck when Hernandez passed away unexpectedly, and the family was devastated. However, they found the strength to keep going, driven by their mother’s dream and legacy. Julio, Kalli, Marcela, and their brother, Carlos, worked together to rebuild the restaurant, with each sibling taking on different responsibilities. They also brought in Kalli’s sister, Ashlyn King, to help with marketing.
Expansion and Innovation
In 2022, the family expanded the restaurant to Washington Avenue, and in March, they opened a new location in the Meyerland area, replacing the original spot. The menu has evolved to include unique items like surf and turf egg rolls, which have become a fan favorite. The family aims to create a distinct culinary style, which they call "H-Mex," blending Latin American cuisine with Houston’s cultural influences. The menu now features dishes like the Texas burrito, birria ramen, and birria grilled cheese.
Conclusion
Doña Leti’s success is a testament to the power of hard work, resilience, and family. The restaurant’s story is one of overcoming adversity and staying true to one’s roots. As Kalli says, "This is how they keep their mom alive," and the family continues to share Hernandez’s legacy with the city of Houston. With plans to expand to Pearland and beyond, Doña Leti’s is sure to remain a staple of the Houston food scene for years to come.
