Introduction to Southern-Style Greens
A Thanksgiving meal isn’t complete without its sides, and in Texas, that often means a spread with a Southern touch and a pot full of collard greens. Simmered low and slow until tender, this leafy staple carries generations of flavor and family tradition, but even the classics can benefit from a little chef guidance.
The Importance of Flavorful Base
This year, two of Houston’s culinary leaders, Top Chef finalist Dawn Burrell and chef Chris Williams of Lucille’s and Late August, shared their secrets for cooking collard greens and a few tricks for their sharper cousin, mustard greens. Burrell emphasizes the importance of infusing the base with flavors, starting with garlic and onion. “I sauté them well to the point where they’re releasing their sweetness,” she explains. Then, Burrell adds the greens, letting them wilt slightly, then deglazes the pan with a rich stock—a nonnegotiable step for her.
Cooking Techniques and Tips
Burrell’s technique involves allowing the greens to finish cooking in their own liquid and stock mix, which makes a really intense pot liquor. When the greens are finally tender, Burrell adds an essential final flourish of apple cider or brown cane vinegar. “You must finish all your collard greens with vinegar,” she insists. On the other hand, Williams starts by seasoning the cooking liquid, then combines it with yellow onions, tomatoes, jalapeños, bell peppers, and plenty of garlic during the boiling process.
Mustard Greens: A New Fixation
Williams says mustard greens procured from his own garden in Kendleton, Texas, are his newest fixation. “They have a really pungent, vegetal greenness to them that stands up through the long cooking process,” he notes. Plus, “they cook in a third of the time the collard greens cook.” To maintain the greens’ bright color while also tenderizing the leaves and reducing cook time, Williams adds a dash of baking soda to the pot.
Recipe: Collard or Mustard Greens
Servings: 8-10
Ingredients:
- 2 gallons of water
- 20 bunches fresh collards or mustard greens (washed and roughly chopped)
- 4 Roma tomatoes
- 1 large yellow onion
- 10 cloves of garlic
- 1 jalapeño
- 1 red bell pepper
- 1 green bell pepper
- 1 smoked turkey neck
- 1 1/2 cups kosher salt
- 1 tablespoon baking soda
- 1/4 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice
Instructions:
- Fill a large stockpot with 2 gallons of water and add turkey necks. Boil for 20 minutes to season the water.
- While boiling water, add tomato, onion, peppers, and garlic to the food processor and process for 30 seconds.
- Then add the vegetable mix to boiling water and cook for five minutes.
- Right before you add the greens, add salt, lemon juice, and baking soda (be sure to turn off the heat while adding the baking soda, as the water will froth up and over the pot).
- Once the last three ingredients have been incorporated into the cooking liquid, bring it back to a boil, add your greens, and stir until completely submerged.
- Cook for 10 to 30 minutes or until you’ve reached the desired tenderness (collards will take longer).
- Remove the pot from the stove and use a slotted spoon to transfer the greens to a serving dish.
- Add enough liquid to reach just below the top of the greens. Serve with pepper vinegar or quick pickles.
Conclusion
In conclusion, cooking Southern-style greens, whether collard or mustard, is an art that requires patience, the right techniques, and a deep understanding of the flavors involved. By following the tips and recipe provided by chefs Dawn Burrell and Chris Williams, you can elevate your Thanksgiving meal with a delicious and traditional side dish that is sure to please both family and friends. Whether you’re a seasoned chef or a beginner in the kitchen, these greens are sure to become a new holiday tradition.
