Introduction to Michy’s Chino Boricua
The term "fusion cuisine" can be somewhat reductionist, flattening the nuances and histories behind how so many culturally blended dishes come to be. They aren’t always the result of conscious experimentation or the pursuit of trendy, TikTok-friendly new mash-ups. Many fusions originate when immigrant chefs introduce their native foods to the local palates populating their new homes, tailoring personal favorite recipes to use the most accessible ingredients while also enticing a broader customer base. Michelle Lao, owner of Michy’s Chino Boricua in Katy, feeds people the way her parents once did, using Chinese and Puerto Rican techniques and ingredients to create a hybrid cuisine crafted from geography and necessity.
The Story Behind Michy’s
Born in Panama to Chinese parents, Lao’s family moved to Puerto Rico when she was just 2 years old. She came of age in her parents’ restaurant, spending her after-school hours in the kitchen and, when she grew older, working the cash registers. In these moments, she observed her parents lovingly injecting flavors from their Chinese heritage into the local fare. Lao gained a fondness for mofongo relleno de pepper steak, craggy-skinned fried chicken, and carne frita served with white rice.
The Blend of Chinese and Puerto Rican Cuisine
Lao notes that Chinese dishes, especially from the Canton region, often use the wok, garlic butter, and shrimp or vegetables. Puerto Rican cuisine also includes generous amounts of garlic. Using that commonality as a starting point, Chinese chefs residing in the Caribbean experimented with incorporating local ingredients, like adobo and sofrito, into their meals. This blend of flavors and techniques is what makes Michy’s Chino Boricua unique.
The Journey to Opening Michy’s
Lao studied accounting in college and later held corporate jobs, including at Airbnb. But by 2019, after nearly a decade in San Francisco, she could no longer continue dodging her encroaching childhood dream of opening a restaurant. Her parents, who had by then moved to the Houston area, tried to discourage her with the best intentions. The food and beverage industry is notoriously punishing; they urged her to take a different path in life, something they themselves weren’t able to pursue in their youth. But Lao didn’t waver. She eventually packed up and moved out to Katy, where she opened San Eatery in partnership with some of her father’s colleagues from Puerto Rico.
Overcoming Challenges
The COVID-19 pandemic hit a month after the February 2020 opening, further compounding the challenges already inherent to owning a new restaurant. After leaving San that July, she signed a lease for her first solo culinary venture on Greenhouse Road by November. Michy’s Chino Boricua officially opened its first location in Katy in May 2021 and a second in Katy Food Hall almost three years later.
The Michy’s Experience
Today, the offerings at Michy’s reflect the meals she grew up around: Chinese fast-food mainstays, including entrées and sides with Puerto Rican staples. Heaping platters of orange chicken, barbecued pork ribs, and pepper tofu are served with mounds of mofongo drizzled with garlic butter, while sizzling churrasco steak and crispy carne frita are enjoyed with fried rice or lo mein. The portions at Michy’s are massive, and they’re presented in a leftovers-friendly Styrofoam clamshell container with plastic-wrapped utensils, befitting the restaurant’s fast-food origins.
A Space for Connection
Lao estimates that around 80 percent of the current clientele are Puerto Rican or Venezuelan, drawn to the Chinese food they remember and love from their home countries. However, most diners are bound to find something familiar and satisfying. That’s what makes Michy’s such a singular dining experience. Lao plants the food firmly in its geographic and historic roots, making only the most minute, if any, tweaks to her parents’ recipes. It’s Chinese. It’s Puerto Rican. And it’s for everyone. Any visitor can find succor in its relaxed atmosphere.
Conclusion
Michy’s Chino Boricua is more than just a restaurant – it’s a space for connection and community. Lao’s dedication to preserving the flavors of her childhood while also catering to the tastes of her customers has created a unique and welcoming atmosphere. With a third location slated to open in Dallas soon, Michy’s is sure to continue to bring people together through the power of food. As Lao says, "I love the fact that [we’re] providing a space to people where they can come and they feel connected… They share a meal, they share stories, and it’s a safe environment where, if you’re thinking about gathering with your friends, [you say], ‘Oh yeah, let’s go to Michy’s.’"
