Introduction to the Michelin Guide
Excitement filled 713 Music Hall last November when the Michelin Guide held its inaugural ceremony for Texas in downtown Houston. The invite-only event allowed chefs from all over the state to switch out their usual stain-filled fits for suits and fancy dresses—and for once, they were the ones being wined and dined. By the end of the night, 116 Texas restaurants walked away with Michelin stars, Bib Gourmands, and other recognitions. Houston came home with 30 of those, including six stars.
The Impact on Local Restaurants
Now, a different buzz fills the walls of those restaurants every night as Houstonians and visitors flock to grab a bite of what the chefs are offering. And while the uptick in business is a boon for local restaurants, it also comes with more pressure to live up to the star—and keep it. Emmanuel Chavez of Tatemó says it’s normal to have slower nights earlier in the week, with the crowd picking up on weekends. But since earning a star, his tasting-menu restaurant in Spring Branch has been at full capacity every night.
Increased Demand and Pressure
The same goes for March, Goodnight Hospitality’s fine-dining spot in Montrose, which is also tasting menu–only. Chef-partner Felipe Riccio says the business increase has been incredible since receiving the accolade. The restaurant is already on the small side, accommodating 40 to 50 people at a time, and now, they’re hitting capacity consistently. For BCN Taste and Tradition, which has been around for 10 years now, busy was always in its nature, but just like every other restaurant, the beginning of the week was always slower.
Adapting to the New Reality
At BCN Taste and Tradition, you can find a variety of seafood plates, as well as duck breast and filet mignon. BCN general manager Jerry Arguelles says the restaurant has actually cut back on the number of people they’ll take on weekends because it’s been so busy; they want to be sure they continue to give each guest a great experience. Over at Le Jardinier in the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, executive chef Felipe Botero says the restaurant has also seen an uptick in diners, which has been inspiring to his staff.
Maintaining Excellence
Earning a Michelin star has been a lifelong dream, and now that the initial excitement has settled, it still feels surreal, Botero says. The Michelin Guide even has more people heading into dreadful Galleria traffic to try Musaafer. Now that the upscale Indian restaurant has a star, executive chef Mayank Istwal says they’ve seen people drive in from all over, including the outskirts of town, Dallas, San Antonio, and Austin. He’s also heard from his staff that some visitors have flown in from New York, which is something he had hoped would happen once the guide was introduced in Texas.
A New Era for Houston Restaurants
Michelin didn’t just award stars to Houston’s fanciest restaurants. More casual spots, especially those serving barbecue, also got a spotlight at the ceremony. All the way in Spring at Corkscrew BBQ, co-owner Nichole Buckman, who works alongside her husband, Will, says it’s a different kind of busy than what they’re used to, especially on Saturdays. New faces now walk through their doors on weekends, while regulars stick to weekdays or online orders to avoid the crowd.
The Road Ahead
The six restaurants are taking different approaches to maintaining their stars—perhaps some will even garner a second in this year’s ceremony. But they don’t necessarily plan on doing anything differently. At March, which closes for a month between seasonal menu changes, Riccio says they have a unique opportunity to reflect and make each experience better for their guests. The goal is to only achieve more, he adds.
Conclusion
These restaurants had already been operating at an elevated level. For Istwal, it was important to have a structure in place. Musaafer offers a detailed training program to educate its workers on specific ingredients, flavor profiles, allergies, and most importantly, Indian culture. Both March and Musaafer teach their staff about the stories and inspiration for the dishes, so they can relate that to each diner. Since opening Tatemó three years ago—and even before the guide announced its expansion to Texas—Chavez also says the goal has always been to operate like a Michelin-starred restaurant. Although the restaurant’s structure won’t change, the uptick in traffic has allowed him to start slowly investing in the space, adding things here and there as he sees fit. He wants to continue to take care of the restaurant as much as possible, so he and his staff can uphold their end of the bargain to Houstonians.
