Introduction to Michelin Stars
In a historic evening for Texas restaurants in late 2024, Michelin handed out 15 stars to the brightest culinary talents in the state. Then, Texas restaurateurs and chefs braced themselves for the selection of 2- or 3-star restaurants. The list would be shorter, no doubt. Except: There was no list at all. The ceremony ended with a celebratory Champagne toast and a poof of confetti in the air.
Understanding the Michelin Guide
Those who use the Michelin Guide as a travel tome — people who plan entire vacations around a single dinner reservation — probably weren’t surprised, because some chefs strive their entire career to receive 1 star, much less 2 or 3. But those who haven’t studied the intricacies of this complicated culinary system likely feel disappointed. The absence of 2- and 3-star Michelin restaurants suggests that Texas’ eateries can’t compare to the best of the best in Tokyo, Paris or Copenhagen. The tough truth is, that’s right.
What Makes a 2- or 3-Star Michelin Restaurant?
Picture a 2- or 3-star Michelin restaurant in another city. Dinner might consist of a four-hour meal with edible art and food so beautiful you hesitate to eat it. There’s not just one smart sommelier in the room, there’s an army of them. The dishes are painstakingly concepted, sourced, prepared and plated. There weren’t restaurants in Texas doing that in 2024.
Chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi of Tatsu Dallas sips Champagne next to the Michelin Man after his restaurant received a 1-star Michelin award on Nov. 11, 2024. Tatsu was the only D-FW restaurant to receive a Michelin star in 2024.
Future of Michelin Stars in Texas
“Inspectors today are very optimistic about the trends and what may happen in the years to come in Texas,” said Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, in 2024. “We do believe that it’s just the very beginning, in terms of the scope and coverage.” Several chefs interviewed during the Michelin ceremony said they’re hopeful a 2-star restaurant will emerge in Texas at the 2025 event, slated for Oct. 28. A 3-star restaurant seems mostly out of the question.
Economic and Cultural Factors
Dallas restaurateur Tanner Agar said in 2024 that economic and cultural factors in Texas will keep our list of 2- and 3-star restaurants short or nonexistent. “I believe we lack the economic ability to keep a restaurant open at the 3-star level,” Agar said a year ago. He said diners pay for what they want. And that’s why Dallas has so many profitable steakhouses.
“I think there’s a hidden gem somewhere in Texas,” said John Bates, owner and pitmaster of InterStellar BBQ in Austin, one of four barbecue joints to get a 1-star Michelin award in Texas in 2024. He said the list of barbecue joints in 2024 is full of “rockstars” — and it shows that Michelin is as serious about barbecue as Texas residents are.
Emerging Talent
Still, when Bates got the invitation to the Michelin event, he thought InterStellar might win a Bib Gourmand, Michelin’s award for affordable restaurants. A 1-star Michelin honor for InterStellar? Forgive the pun, but that seemed out of this world. Bates remained shocked by the honor after the ceremony ended.
Julian Shaffer (center), bar manager at Rye in Dallas, reacts after winning the Exceptional Cocktails Award during Michelin Guide Texas Ceremony on Monday, Nov. 11, 2024 in Houston.
Conclusion
While Michelin doesn’t fully explain how its anonymous inspectors operate, we do know its standards get more stringent with every star. “In the Michelin Guide,
