Introduction to El Califa de León
The visit to Dallas-Fort Worth by the only Michelin-starred taquería in the world was a mixture of surprises — and disappointments — on its first day popping up in University Park. El Califa de León, which hails from Mexico City, is the only taquería in the world with a Michelin star. It has now earned the accolade for two consecutive years, and from Oct. 16 to 28, 2025, it is serving its world-famous tacos at a pop-up at 6501 Hillcrest Ave. #130 near Southern Methodist University.
The Opening Day
The opening was scheduled for Oct. 15, but a gas leak delayed the event by one day. And then a lack of inspections by University Park authorities delayed the opening again. On Thursday, dozens of people lined up starting at 10:30 a.m. to try what Michelin-starred tacos taste like. First in line was Drew Stephenson, the Michelin man, who has visited all 15 Michelin-starred restaurants in Texas. “I’m here to see what surprises this taco has in store,” Stephenson said. “I’m excited!”
Drew Stephenson shows of his taco plate at an El Califa de León taquería pop-up, Thursday, Oct. 16, 2025, in University Park. El Califa de León is located in Mexico City and is the only Michelin-starred taquería in the world.
Collaboration and Pop-Up
El Califa de León arrived in North Texas as part of a collaboration with GrinGo, a travel and safety app for Americans, which has organized several pop-ups in Arizona and is now entering the Texas market. But inside what was formerly restaurant Red Stix, where the tacos would be served, there was no movement. Time passed and the line grew longer and longer as the supposed opening time approached. The El Califa team still hadn’t received the final approvals for its inspection. So the team asked their neighbors at D.L. Mack’s, a restaurant that makes cracker-crust pizza and items inspired by Chicago neighborhood taverns, for help so they could get started. Brian Krupski, founder of GrinGo, had the idea of serving the tacos at the back of D.L. Mack’s, right in front of the back door. The team set up two plastic tables, dressed them with a red tablecloth and placed a traditional Mexican doll on them.
Michelin-starred chef Mario Hernández pictured at an El Califa de León taquería pop-up, Thursday, Oct. 16, 2025, in University Park. El Califa de León is located in Mexico City and is the only Michelin-starred taquería in the world.
The Wait and the Tacos
Krupski then informed the waiting customers, who now numbered in the dozens, that they would have to move to the back of D.L. Mack’s. And as if Krupski were leading them to the Promised Land, the diners followed him. The sun began to beat down on the people waiting patiently. The tacos were taking a long time to come out, and little by little, people began to leave. However, there were some who decided to wait to try the famous “gaonera.” This is El Califa de León’s star taco, a beef fillet taco with a simple lemon and salt marinade, but whose secret lies in the cut of the meat. “Finally, after two hours!” said Arturo Vázquez when he tasted the taco. “I think the best thing about the taco is the salsa. It’s very good.”
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