A ‘Soulful’ Escape: Nafsi 1916 Restaurant Opens in a Once Whites-Only Space Along the South Shore
The patter of African drums echoes through the grand foyer as dozens of young Black women huddle, chat, and laugh beneath the space’s crystal chandeliers. The chandeliers are a reminder of the Mediterranean resort-style building’s past, when men in straw boaters and women with parasols could enjoy the South Shore Country Club’s tennis courts, horse riding, ballroom dancing, or perhaps just a quiet contemplation of Lake Michigan. But only if you were white and not Jewish.
The Girls Like Me Project event, held last week on the property’s grounds, aimed to empower African American youth between the ages of 11 and 17, is a reminder of South Shore’s present and hoped-for future — as is Nafsi 1916, the first Black-owned fine dining restaurant in the history of what is now called the South Shore Cultural Center, located at 7059 S. South Shore Dr.
A ‘Soulful’ Menu
Donnell Digby, the restaurant’s charismatic owner, is happy to talk about the building’s past, but he’s even more enthusiastic about the food. "You won’t believe what he’s doing with the food," he says, leading a visitor into the kitchen, where Executive Chef Dondee Robinson is sprinkling chopped parsley onto half a dozen char-broiled oysters bubbling in Creole garlic butter. The menu, described by Digby as "soulful," includes a Southern take on the Italian Caprese salad, featuring plump fried green tomatoes with a balsamic reduction drizzle. Among the entrees: catfish with a bouillabaisse bechamel sauce, pan-seared Atlantic salmon with a honey sesame glaze, and an Angus beef flank steak with garlic truffle frites and a kale chimichurri.
A Landmark’s Complicated Past
The South Shore Country Club has hosted everyone from President William Taft to European royalty. Guests have also included Jean Harlow, Will Rogers, and Amelia Earhart. More recently, the Obamas held their wedding reception there. As the makeup of the neighborhood changed — eventually becoming predominantly African American — membership at the country club dwindled. The Chicago Park District bought the facility in 1975 and planned to demolish the buildings. A coalition of mostly South Shore residents spent five years fighting the plan.
A New Era
The country club’s complex history is reflected in the 1916 in the restaurant’s name. "Nafsi" is Swahili for "soul," and "1916" refers to the year the country club’s original 1906 clubhouse was replaced with the far grander resort-style buildings seen today. The Nafsi interior is airy and minimalist — in part by design, but also because of the constraints of working in a landmarked building. "So we did our best to bring vibrancy, nuances, and light to the space," Digby says.
A Brighter Future
For Tonya Trice, executive director of the South Shore Chamber of Commerce, Nafsi’s arrival couldn’t have come at a better time. "This is probably the first upscale restaurant we’ve had in a very long time," she says. "This is an opportunity for us to attract people from different parts of Chicago. … This is an opportunity to capitalize on the expected tourism by the (under-construction) Obama Presidential Center." Nafsi officially opened on October 11. For information, visit nafsisouthshorebeach.com.
The Future of the South Shore Cultural Center
As for the South Shore Cultural Center itself, which has languished in underuse, 77-year-old Carol Adams, a retired university professor and South Shore activist, hopes to see more cultural activity. "What I’d like to see is a lot more cultural activity .. because it’s such a beautiful space," she says. "It’s almost become more of a venue than a cultural center for the community." For now, Nafsi is a beacon of hope for a brighter future in the South Shore.
