Introduction to Rob Levitt
Rob Levitt is (or should be) a familiar name to anyone who’s been eating in Chicago over the past decade. Levitt’s resume is as long as your arm, and includes his (sadly short-lived) restaurant Mado, his long tenure as Chicago’s most prominent butcher at The Butcher & Larder, and a stint running Publican Quality Meats. Levitt has now overseen the Publican for about four months, and I sat down with him to talk management, menu design, and what it’s like to be back in the hot seat.
Back in the Hot Seat
When I say “the hot seat” I mean it literally; while Levitt has never left the culinary world, he hasn’t been in charge of a large, busy restaurant for more than a decade. “It was a trial by fire,” he says. “My first couple of weekends, I was like ‘what am I doing?’” For example, Levitt had never worked with a digital order management system — because when he was last in charge, there was no such thing. Luckily, he has good folks underneath him, including a sous chef who shifted over from Avec to help out.
Focusing on the People
Some chefs taking over a new kitchen jump in and immediately start changing things to fit their “vision;” perhaps unsurprisingly, given Levitt’s collaborative nature and chill affect, he focused on something very different: the people. Levitt saw that some of the culture at the Publican was suffering, and the chefs there didn’t have quite the high spirits that they did in years past. Whatever the cause, he was determined to fix it. “My first priority was to really get to know the staff and get everyone feeling really good about working at the Publican; it’s a legendary place,” he explains. “My goal wasn’t to come in and rule with an iron fist, but to come in and figure out who people were and let them know I want to hear what you have to say, no matter what level you are.” He firmly believes that collaboration and letting people take ownership of their work leads to great results — and it seems to be paying off already. For example, consider the legendary Publican chicken; the dish had declined over the past few years, but now, “I have regulars coming in and saying the chicken is the best it’s ever been. That’s just as big a compliment as someone saying a new dish is fantastic,” says Levitt.
Menu Changes
That’s not to say that Levitt hasn’t been changing up the menu; there are some awesome new dishes, including a huge lamb shank with black garlic, lentils, and roasted cauliflower that is inspired by Levitt’s daughter’s love of the lamb dumplings at QXY. He’s also introduced a whole roasted suckling pig option; if you give Levitt a few days’ notice (and $600), he’ll put together a huge spread for you and nine of your closest friends, including the pig straight from the wood oven, sides, and sauces.
Charcuterie Program
Another big change comes to the charcuterie program, long a key part of the Publican. Levitt refuses to do a charcuterie board (“You can go to Chili’s and get one now; it’s not special”), but has instead broken up the charcuterie into individual dishes. For example, you can order salami served with marinated baby lima beans or coppa with melon and juniper salt. Instead of just a mound of slices, it’s a full appetizer based around a cured meat.
Vegetables at the Publican
It’s not just meat that Levitt has been focused on. “Publican isn’t just this house of gout that people think it is — we take our vegetables very seriously,” he says. Every week, he gets a list of the best items from Publican’s farm partners and goes through a menu and dish design process with the culinary directors of One Off Hospitality. A recent addition he’s particularly proud of: Japanese sweet potatoes that are cured in miso, roasted, and served with a black garlic yogurt and smoked almond salsa verde.
The Power of Collaboration
“My favorite part about that dish is that throughout the evening I see the cooks trying it,” says Levitt. “They make themselves bites with the components and then turn to their station partners and say, ‘you have to try this.’ Suddenly I have four cooks talking about sweet potatoes. When the cooks love the food, you feel good.”
Conclusion
In conclusion, Rob Levitt’s takeover of the Publican has brought a new wave of energy and creativity to the restaurant. With his focus on collaboration, menu innovation, and staff satisfaction, it’s clear that the Publican is in good hands. Whether you’re a longtime fan of the restaurant or just discovering it, there’s never been a better time to visit and experience the magic of Rob Levitt’s culinary vision.
FAQs
Q: What is Rob Levitt’s background in the culinary world?
A: Rob Levitt has a long and varied background in the culinary world, including his (sadly short-lived) restaurant Mado, his long tenure as Chicago’s most prominent butcher at The Butcher & Larder, and a stint running Publican Quality Meats.
Q: What changes has Rob Levitt made to the Publican’s menu?
A: Levitt has introduced several new dishes, including a huge lamb shank with black garlic, lentils, and roasted cauliflower, and a whole roasted suckling pig option. He has also broken up the charcuterie into individual dishes and added new vegetable options, such as Japanese sweet potatoes cured in miso.
Q: What is Rob Levitt’s approach to management?
A: Levitt focuses on collaboration and letting people take ownership of their work, believing that this leads to great results. He has prioritized getting to know the staff and making them feel good about working at the Publican.
