Saturday, October 4, 2025

New Omakase Spot SHŌ Brings Playful Twist To Japanese Tradition

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Introduction to SHŌ

OLD TOWN — Two of Chicago’s most accomplished chefs are teaming up to bring a reimagined take on omakase to Old Town. Adam Sindler, a fourth-generation restaurateur whose great-grandmother opened the pioneering sushi bar Kamehachi in 1967, and Michelin-starred chef Mari Katsumura will debut SHŌ Tuesday in the space next door to Kamehachi at 1533 N. Wells St.

The Concept of Omakase

The 12-seat restaurant will offer a modern, more playful interpretation of omakase that blends tradition with unexpected touches, the chefs said. Omakase — which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese — is a style of dining where guests trust the chef to craft a multi-course menu, often featuring seasonal ingredients and precise technique.

A variety of sushi options available at SHŌ. Credit: Mistey Nguyen

The History of Omakase in Chicago

Chicago’s first omakase-style restaurant opened in 1967, when Kamehachi introduced sushi to the city. In recent years, the format has gained popularity at small, high-end counters across the city.

The Chefs Behind SHŌ

At SHŌ, instead of a formal, back-to-back progression of nigiri, guests can expect whimsical plating, bold flavors and a darker, moodier atmosphere than most omakase counters.
Adam Sindler Credit: Mistey Nguyen
“We didn’t want to do more of the same,” Sindler said. “This is personal to both of us, but it’s also something fresh for Old Town and for Chicago.”

Menu Highlights

The menu’s highlights include dishes ranging from a sukiyaki-inspired hand roll dipped in sauce after dissolving a cotton candy topping to inventive takes on chawanmushi and crudo.

The Chefs’ Background

Katsumura, the daughter of restaurateurs, grew up in her family’s Lakeview institution, Yoshi’s Café. After studying fine art, she returned to the kitchen to work in some of Chicago’s most celebrated restaurants including Grace, Blackbird and Acadia. She helped open Entente — which earned a Michelin star in 2018 — and led West Loop’s Yūgen to a Michelin star within nine months of opening.
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