Jenner Tomaska and The Fifty/50 Group Team Up on a Steakhouse
A Crossover between French Cuisine and Traditional Steakhouse Offerings
I’ve been a huge fan of chef Jenner Tomaska’s work ever since I first encountered his food at Next almost a decade ago. Since 2021, he’s been executive chef of the art-inspired tasting menu spot Esme, where I’ve eaten some of my most fun meals in recent memory. So when I found out that he was opening a steakhouse, of all things, I had to learn more.
The Concept
The new restaurant is called The Alston, and it’s a collaboration between Tomaska and The Fifty/50 Group. Tomaska had been tossing around ideas for new restaurants with the principals of the group, Scott Weiner and Greg Mohr, for years, but none of them quite fit until this one. "I was head over heels with the concept," says Tomaska. Turns out that one of his first jobs was at a steakhouse in Orland Park, and despite his recent stint as a chef making fancy tasting menus, he’s done plenty of a la carte cooking.
A French Twist on Steakhouse Classics
Tomaska’s vision for The Alston is a crossover between his love of French food and the traditional offerings of a steakhouse. "I love French cuisine, and I think there’s so much crossover between a traditional steakhouse and classic French cooking, whether it’s technique, sauce work, or great products, and I’m excited to find these nuanced similarities between the two." That doesn’t mean that the food will be overwrought or complicated; in fact, Tomaska emphasizes his simple approach. "We want to season and cook as minimalistically as possible." The restaurant will source its beef from O’Hern Stock Farms in Southern Illinois, and each cow will be specially selected for the restaurant.
A Unique Experience
Don’t expect all of the steakhouse standards, however. When I asked Tomaska if he plans to offer a raw bar (which seems mandatory for steak places these days), he laughs. "I don’t want to serve the typical round of U10 shrimp that everyone serves. If we can’t get a live spot prawn, we won’t serve shrimp. Even if you poach frozen shrimp in a beautiful bouillon, it tastes no different between places. We want to take it a step beyond that." There will also be a few unique additions, including one which superfans might remember from Next: a pressed duck done tableside, including all the parts of the bird, with the legs confited and served as part of a salad. You’ll also find custom-sculpted ice swans to serve alongside traditional desserts like peach melba. The phrase Tomaska uses again and again to describe everything at the Alston? "Over the top."
Tableside Service and More
Tableside service is one of the primary things that will make The Alston "over the top." Bread will be sliced tableside on an antique rotary bread slicer, whole local trout baked in salt will be carved at the table, and dishes will even be cooked over live flames next to diners, using special portable grills imported from France.
Private Club and Seasonal Patio
In addition to the restaurant, The Alston will also offer a members-only club, which will feature private spaces and perks like classes, last-minute reservations, wine storage, and access to special barrels and vintages.
Another signature feature of the restaurant will be a 100-seat enclosed all-season patio. The restaurant will be at the corner of Superior and State in the Gold Coast, up on the third floor, so the patio looks out over Holy Name Cathedral. "It will be one of the best places in Chicago to sit on a patio in the summer and in the winter," says Tomaska. The patio isn’t the only impressive design element — there will be a giant art screen on the ceiling of the dining room, which will slowly rotate through pieces from artists all over the world during your meal.
Conclusion
The Alston is set to open by the end of May.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What is the concept of The Alston?
The Alston is a steakhouse that combines French cuisine with traditional steakhouse offerings. - What is the source of the beef for The Alston?
The restaurant will source its beef from O’Hern Stock Farms in Southern Illinois. - Will there be a raw bar at The Alston?
No, the restaurant will not offer a traditional raw bar. Instead, it will offer unique seafood options. - What is the plan for tableside service?
Tableside service will include bread being sliced on an antique rotary bread slicer, whole local trout being carved at the table, and dishes being cooked over live flames next to diners.
