The Art of Truffle Hunting: A Journey from Europe to Chicago

A Tale of Two Truffles

If you think truffles are just a chocolate treat, think again. There are black and white truffles, both impossible to grow, so they must be sniffed out by trained dogs in the wild. Italy’s Piedmont region is world famous, but lesser known is the Croatian region of Istria, a peninsula that juts out into the Adriatic Sea across from Venice.

The Truffle-Hunting Process

The area is known for three things: wine, olive oil, and truffles, which are not easy to find, as The Food Guy Steve Dolinsky discovered one morning near the village of Šćulci. The first sound you hear in the morning is not from a rooster, but rather, a dog. Truffle-hunting dogs, that is. Lagotto Romagnolos and labradors, they were trained since they were three months old, to sniff out the alien-looking tubers known as black and white truffles.

A Bounty of Truffles

Armin Hadžić, a truffle hunter, said this year has been dry, which means fewer truffles. “Now they want to give you a lot of money just to motivate hunters to go here to try and find something,” he said. If he and his dogs do find something, they’ll be paid handsomely. About a thousand bucks a pound.

From Forest to Table

After a 45-minute odyssey through a damp forest covered in autumn leaves… success. The Romagnolo hits paydirt: a white truffle. “You need to have a dog who can smell one meter deep,” said Hadžić. Back at Karlić Tartufi, truffles are scrubbed, cleaned, and air-dried, then packaged for shipment to the U.S., where they’ll be on tables in a day or two.

The Price of Rarity

In Karlić’s dining room for tourists, they demonstrate their applications. There are four types of blacks, retailing for more than $500 a pound, while the rarer whites will fetch six times that amount. “Why they are expensive, because they’re rare. Very, very rare,” said Lidija Sirotić, one of the managers at Karlić Tartufi. Shaved raw, they perfume anything they touch. “…from cold dishes – salami, cheeses…,” said Sirotić. But their aroma and flavor also provide an earthy boost to warm dishes as well. “Like pasta, like scrambled eggs,” she said.

Chicago’s Truffle Scene

In the West Loop, Monteverde focuses on regional Italian cooking, namely homemade pastas, so truffles wind up on the menu half the year; especially now. “White truffles, you just want to shave on top of something, you never want to cook with white truffles. Black truffles are the opposite. They have the ability to go with more robust flavors,” said Sarah Grueneberg, the chef-owner of Monteverde. She currently has a potato and Montasio cheese-filled žlikrofi pasta from the Friuli region – a rich dish for cooler weather.

A Truffle Dinner

Monteverde, by the way, is doing a truffle dinner Monday night; tickets are still available. Several other local restaurants are carrying truffles from Istria, and you can learn more about who has them from the local importer – Tartufo Prestige Chicago.

Featured Spots

* Monteverde
+ 1020 W. Madison St., 312-888-3041
* Riccardo Trattoria
+ 2119 N. Clark St., 773-549-0038
* Tartufo Prestige
+ @tartufoprestige.chicago (Instagram)

Conclusion

Truffles are a delicacy that requires patience, skill, and a deep appreciation for the culinary world. From the forests of Istria to the kitchens of Chicago, the journey of truffle hunting and preparation is a true celebration of the senses.

FAQs

Q: Where can I find truffles in Chicago?
A: Several local restaurants are carrying truffles from Istria, including Monteverde, Riccardo Trattoria, and others. You can also learn more about who has them from the local importer – Tartufo Prestige Chicago.

Q: What’s the difference between black and white truffles?
A: Black truffles are more common and can be used in a variety of dishes, while white truffles are rarer and are typically shaved raw and used as a garnish.

Q: How much do truffles cost?
A: The price of truffles can vary depending on the type and quality, but generally range from $500 to $6,000 per pound.

Q: Where can I learn more about truffles?
A: You can learn more about truffles from local restaurants, food bloggers, and importers, as well as online resources and truffle-themed events.