Sake 101: Chicago experts help us navigate the mysterious, elegant Japanese rice wine

A window into Japanese cuisine and culture

Many years ago, when I worked at a Japanese restaurant, a hot sake dispensed from a machine often ended my night. My expectations of this beverage were low beyond chilling out after a busy service. But after a visit to a traditional izakaya (a Japanese-style pub) where I experienced a variety of sakes — none of which were served hot — it was a revelation of what this rice wine could be.

Since then, sake has gained a greater appreciation in the U.S. beyond sake bombs (a glass of beer in which a shot of sake is dropped in), although there are still plenty of those offered at restaurants too. Sake breweries have expanded outside Japan, including in Brooklyn, Nashville and Seattle. But for many, sake remains a mystery.

Daniel Bennett’s eye-opener came while working for Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto. For Bennett, sake provided a window into Japanese cuisine and culture. Since then, he’s passionately explored this ancient beverage, including at his current gig as assistant general manager at Sushi-san and The Omakase Room. His journey includes earning the title of certified sake professional and crafting a private label sake, Sake-san, for the restaurants in partnership with a brewery in Osaka, Japan.

Breaking down the barriers

“Sake is literally foreign in every way, from the writing on the bottle to the terms for the different styles,” says Bennett as to why some people are daunted by it. “But while sake service and production are steeped in tradition, all are welcome to share a glass whether you’re an expert or it’s your first time tasting.”

At the restaurants, he works with staff to help take away sake’s inherent intimidation.

“Sake is simply a Japanese alcoholic beverage, brewed like beer, but similar to white wine,” says Bennett, adding that rice, water, yeast and koji (rice inoculated with a natural fermentation culture) are traditionally the only ingredients used to make it. Sake’s ABV is slightly higher than wine but lower than most cocktails.

Rather than using “red” or “white” to determine a guest’s sake style, he recommends using clean/dry, fruit/floral and rich/round as preference indicators. From there, he might delve into the levels of rice milling and their terms — junmai, ginjo and daiginjo, from least to most polished respectively — to offer additional information on sake’s nuances.

Sake styles and pairings

At Konbini & Kanpai, Jun-Jun Vichaikul and Naomi Hattori have likewise made it their mission to raise sake’s profile, along with other Japanese beverages and snacks. “My wife and I started this passion project for sake three years ago during COVID,” says Vichaikul, who is also a certified sake professional. “We realized that the Midwest needed a place where people could explore sake.” Special sake tastings and a monthly sake club help spread the sake message.

To further demystify sake, 4-ounce pours from bottles carried at Konbini & Kanpai — 60 at Wrigleyville and up to 160 at Lake View — are available to try. Staff are trained to ask customers what they normally like to drink to help refine the selection process.

For first-time sake drinkers, Bennett has developed a system that helps guide them on where to start. Prefer dry white wines or clear spirits? Daiginjo or honjozo sakes are for you. If cocktails or fruit-driven white wines are your go-to, try a junmai ginjo. For those who prefer whisky, beer or red wine, he’d recommend junmai, while low-proof cocktail drinkers and pina colada lovers would enjoy njgori (cloudy, unfiltered sake) or fruit-infused sakes (ume-shu or yuzu-shu).

Pairing sake with food and spirits

When it comes to pairing with food, sake has a leg up. “One thing I’ve always preached is sake is meant for food,” says Vichaikul, citing the increase of sake on pairing menus at restaurants. “It’s pretty clean by nature and can amplify and enhance what you are eating. With those four ingredients, sake can span a very vast flavor profile range that wine can’t hit.”

Sake also plays nicely with other spirits. “Generally, there’s not a wrong answer for what makes a sake good for a cocktail,” says Kevin Beary, beverage director for Sushi-San. “Rather, it depends on what you’re doing and the how you craft the cocktail.”

For the restaurants’ sake cocktails, he leans towards ones that are a little funkier with fuller flavors and higher in alcohol, which allows the delicate sake notes to come through. Sometimes sake can stand in for a full-strength spirit. Martini lovers could try subbing out some of the gin or vodka for sake for a mid-tier ABV option, says Beary. For your next highball cocktail, he suggests mixing Japanese whisky with sake, sparkling water and one other delicate flavoring element.

Conclusion

Sake may be a mysterious and elegant Japanese rice wine, but with the help of experts like Daniel Bennett and Jun-Jun Vichaikul, it’s easier than ever to navigate the world of sake. Whether you’re a seasoned sake enthusiast or just starting out, there’s a sake out there for you. So, go ahead and give sake a try – you might just find yourself falling in love with its unique flavor profile and cultural significance.

FAQs

Q: What is sake?

A: Sake is a Japanese rice wine that is brewed like beer but similar to white wine. It is made from rice, water, yeast, and koji (rice inoculated with a natural fermentation culture).

Q: What are the different levels of rice milling in sake?

A: Junmai, ginjo, and daiginjo are the three main levels of rice milling in sake. Junmai is the least polished, while daiginjo is the most polished.

Q: How do I choose a sake?

A: Choose a sake based on your personal preference. If you like dry white wines or clear spirits, try a daiginjo or honjozo sake. If you like cocktails or fruit-driven white wines, try a junmai ginjo. For those who prefer whisky, beer, or red wine, try a junmai.

Q: Can I pair sake with other spirits?

A: Yes, sake can be paired with other spirits. It’s a great substitute for full-strength spirits in cocktails and can add a unique flavor profile to your drinks.

Q: How do I store sake?

A: Sake should be stored in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. It’s best to store sake in a refrigerator to keep it at the optimal temperature for consumption.